Delving into the extraordinary realm of Francesco Risso's Marni: 'We continually reach for the edge'

In the heart of Milan, at Marni's headquarters on Viale Umbria, Francesco Risso orchestrated a captivating spectacle for the S/S 2025 season. As the creative director of the esteemed fashion house, Risso delivered a collection that was as thought-provoking as it was visually stunning.

Risso, known for his refreshing voice in the fashion industry, subverted the runway show once again, with models donning both sparse and extravagant attire. The exaggerated eyebrows, a striking feature of the show, added an edgy allure to the ensembles.

The clothes themselves were a delightful juxtaposition, with simple micro jackets and stretch cotton leggings sitting comfortably alongside exuberant florals, couture-like dresses adorned with hand-cut poplin feathers, and embroidered crystals. The collection expressed the idea of resistance, with cotton used in a myriad of innovative finishes.

One of the highlights of the show was the intense score composed by Dev Hynes, which provided a rhythmic backdrop to the visual feast unfolding on the runway. However, it was noted that Hynes was not involved in the S/S 2025 collection, having collaborated with Risso on previous collections.

Risso's creative process is deeply influenced by his decade-long work with Miuccia Prada, which he credits for shaping his approach at Marni. He also finds parallels between painting and his own creative writing, expressing that both evoke similar feelings within him.

In a bid to make fashion more empathetic within culture, Risso collaborated with Nigerian artists Slawn and Soldier for the S/S 2025 collections. He worked closely with these artists before Meryll Rogge took over as creative director later in 2025.

Risso's belief in the intersection of art and craftsmanship is rooted in his admiration for Walter Gropius' Bauhaus Manifesto. He advocates for the importance of making beautiful things by hand in the future of fashion.

The S/S 2025 Marni show progressed to include trumpet-skirt silhouettes and swishy boas made from paper-like materials, partially inspired by a 1960s Audrey Hepburn shoot. The show also featured models from various agencies, including Models 1, Menace Model Management, Next Management London, The Squad Management, PRM Agency, Brother Models, Established Models, Anti Agency, and casting by Ikki Casting at WSM.

In a nod to sustainability, the S/S 2022 Marni show dressed 400 guests in upcycled Marni ensembles and featured performances by Mykki Blanco and Zsela. Risso believes that people who wear Marni's clothing should feel they can have any day or personality they want, encouraging individuality and self-expression.

With the S/S 2025 Marni show, Risso once again demonstrated his ability to push the boundaries of fashion while staying true to the brand's ethos. The collection was a testament to the power of art, craftsmanship, and the human touch in creating something truly extraordinary.

Delving into the extraordinary realm of Francesco Risso's Marni: 'We continually reach for the edge'