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Examining the Fascinating Past of ancient Turquoise Jewelry

Jewellery Historian and Valuer John Benjamin FGA DGA FIRV delves into the intriguing past in his third Gemstone Conversations article for Gems&Jewellery, uncovering captivating stories and facts about jewellery.

Exploring the Captivating Past of Ancient Turquoise Jewelry
Exploring the Captivating Past of Ancient Turquoise Jewelry

Examining the Fascinating Past of ancient Turquoise Jewelry

In the realm of precious gems, few can rival the distinctive beauty and cultural resonance of turquoise. Known as firoozeh (فیروزه) in Persian, this blue-green gemstone has been highly prized in ancient Persia, a tradition that continues to this day.

Historically, Neyshabur was renowned for its exceptional quality turquoise, and from there, the craft of working with turquoise, such as the art form Firoozeh Koobi (inlaying turquoise onto metal), spread to other regions like Mashhad. In Persian culture, turquoise was more than decorative; it was believed to have protective and healing properties, acting as a talisman against evil and bringing strength to the wearer.

Antique Persian jewelry often incorporated turquoise due to these qualities as well as for its striking color, which resonated deeply with Persian aesthetics and spirituality. The stone was used in a variety of personal adornments and ceremonial objects, often combined with metals such as gold, silver, and brass in intricate designs. This use of turquoise ties closely to Persia’s broader tradition of fine handicrafts and artistry, which thrived under various dynasties.

The significance of turquoise in antique Persian jewelry also lies in its symbolic meanings: it represented strength, protection, and divine favor, making it an essential element not only of personal adornment but also of spiritual and cultural identity. This tradition continues today in the preservation of turquoise craftsmanship, particularly in regions historically known for the gem’s mines and artisanship.

Turquoise's history extends beyond Persia, with the Post War era seeing its reversion to its 19th-century format of clusters of small, pavé-set cabochons, mounted in asymmetrical, three-dimensional gold frames alongside other primary-colored gems. In England, turquoise was used to stud horses' tack, while in New Mexico, Native Americans believed that mounting turquoise on hunting bows would make arrows more likely to hit their targets.

The Georgian era saw turquoise often used in sentimental jewellery, such as padlocks, hearts, and Fede rings, often set with compatible gems like rubies and half pearls. In the Victorian age, turquoise became extremely fashionable, particularly when mounted in high carat bright yellow gold in domed, pavé clusters reminiscent of Liquorice Allsorts.

Throughout the 20th century, turquoise was used in various forms, whether as an accompaniment to diamonds in bold and distinctive Art Deco brooches or in contrasting and colorful marquetry patterns with onyx, coral, and ivory in accessories such as cigarette cases and powder compacts.

Today, the universal affection for genuine turquoise means this most distinctive of gems looks likely to be in demand well into the 21st century and beyond. Its long-standing history and significant cultural symbolism make it a gemstone that continues to captivate, resonate, and inspire.

[1] Mashhad, Iran: A Centre for Persian Turquoise Craftsmanship. (n.d.). Retrieved from https://www.iran-tourism.org/mashhad-a-centre-for-persian-turquoise-craftsmanship/

[2] The Meaning of Turquoise in Persian Culture. (n.d.). Retrieved from https://www.persianpottery.com/blog/the-meaning-of-turquoise-in-persian-culture

[3] Persian Arts and Crafts: A Brief Overview. (n.d.). Retrieved from https://www.iranicaonline.org/articles/persian-arts-and-crafts

[4] Achaemenid Art. (n.d.). Retrieved from https://www.iranicaonline.org/articles/achaemenid-art

[5] Turquoise: The Gemstone of Persia. (n.d.). Retrieved from https://www.jewelry.com/uk/blog/turquoise-the-gemstone-of-persia/

  1. Mashhad, Iran, stands as a hub for masterful Persian turquoise craftsmanship, with Firoozeh Koobi, an intricate art form of inlaying turquoise on metal, originating from there.
  2. The significance of turquoise in Persian culture goes beyond decoration; it was believed to offer protection, healing, and strength.
  3. Turquoise's protective and healing properties made it a preferred gemstone in ancient Persia, where it was used in personal adornments and ceremonial objects.
  4. Antique Persian jewelry often featured turquoise, which was combined with metals like gold, silver, and brass in elaborate designs.
  5. The use of turquoise in ancient Persia can be traced back to Neyshabur, a city known for its exceptional quality turquoise.
  6. Post War era turquoise adornments reverted to a 19th-century design of clusters of small, pavé-set cabochons, mounted in gold frames.
  7. In England, turquoise was used to embellish horses' tack, while in New Mexico, Native Americans believed that mounting turquoise on hunting bows increased the accuracy of their arrows.
  8. Turquoise took center stage in the Georgian era, often used in sentimental jewelry items like padlocks, hearts, and Fede rings.
  9. As the Victorian age progressed, turquoise became exceptionally fashionable, particularly when mounted in high carat gold in domed, pavé clusters.
  10. Turquoise was employed in various forms throughout the 20th century, either as a complement to diamonds in Art Deco brooches or in contrasting patterns with onyx, coral, and ivory in accessories.
  11. Today, the enduring appeal of genuine turquoise ensures its continued popularity well into the 21st century.
  12. Turquoise has a rich cultural symbolism that transcends its use in jewelry, representing strength, protection, and divine favor.
  13. This tradition is preserved in regions historically known for turquoise mines and artisanship.
  14. The Persian Arts and Crafts scene thrived under various dynasties, with turquoise being an integral part of this artistic legacy.
  15. Achaemenid Art showcases the significant use of turquoise in Persian jewelry and other artifacts.
  16. Persian jewelry featuring turquoise illustrates a deep connection between the gemstone and Persian aesthetics and spirituality.
  17. Exploring the meaning of turquoise in Persian culture offers valuable insights into its role in jewelry and its broader cultural significance.
  18. Turquoise is not just a gemstone; it is a piece of Persian history and heritage.
  19. Learning about the history and symbolism of turquoise in Persian culture enhances our understanding of this captivating gemstone.
  20. Seeing the articles on [1], [2], [3], [4], and [5] can provide a comprehensive understanding of turquoise's place in Persian culture.
  21. Beyond Persian culture, turquoise has been prized for its distinctive beauty in various contexts.
  22. The association of turquoise with strength, protection, and divine favor has persisted throughout its history.
  23. Alongside its beauty, turquoise's symbolic value has played a crucial role in its enduring popularity.
  24. Individuals seeking knowledge about turquoise can explore educational courses, workshops, and online publications about gemmology.
  25. The diploma programs offered in gemmology provide in-depth insights into the world of precious gems, including turquoise.
  26. Personal growth and self-development can be fostered through education and skills training in areas like gemmology.
  27. Big wins can come in the form of learning new skills and acquiring valuable knowledge, such as understanding the complexities of turquoise.
  28. Shopping for turquoise jewelry or learning about it can be an enjoyable way to experience personal growth and enrich one's lifestyle.
  29. Social media, movies, TV, and books offer avenues to learn about the fascinating world of turquoise and other precious gems.
  30. Career development in the fields of education, self-development, or jeweler can be sparked by a passion for gemstones like turquoise.
  31. The casino and gambling culture, whether in Las Vegas or through online casino games, has a unique fascination with precious gems like turquoise, particularly in games like casino-themed slots.

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