Italy battles to preserve its traditional coffeehouses amid looming presence of Gucci and other luxury retailers along the fashion mile

The iconic Caffè Greco, allegedly the oldest coffeehouse in Rome, is currently embroiled in a heated rental dispute with its owner, the Israelite Hospital of Rome. This conflict, which has been brewing since 2017 when the lease expired, has escalated to a potential eviction due to a significant increase in rent.

Originally, the monthly rent was 22,000 euros, but the Israelite Hospital of Rome has demanded a staggering increase to 120,000 euros. The legal dispute between the operators and the hospital is likely to be lengthy, with the crisis of the Caffè Greco representing more than a simple dispute over rent and ownership. It symbolises an anomaly in a street now dominated by luxury brands, standing as a beacon of history and culture.

The coffeehouse, recognised as a historical cultural heritage site, has been a meeting place for artists and intellectuals since 1760. Notable visitors include Johann Wolfgang von Goethe, Giacomo Casanova, Franz Liszt, and Arthur Schopenhauer. The Antico Caffè Greco, where history, art, and literature converge, is a tradition that goes beyond Rome, with similar coffeehouses in Vienna and Paris serving as cradles of thought and cultural heritage.

In early August, Carabinieri from the heritage authority inspected the rooms of the Caffè Greco and found that numerous pieces of furniture had disappeared. The operators explained that they had temporarily stored the items due to problems with the electricity. However, the courts interpreted the heritage protection of the Caffè Greco building and its furnishings more narrowly, stating that it does not mean the café must continue operating.

The Israelite Hospital of Rome aims to continue the traditional establishment under new management, respecting its historical character. As a non-profit organization, it seeks a market-based rent to ensure funds for public health care. The new operator proposed by the hospital, if the rent dispute is not resolved, has not been named in the available sources. The operators also stated that the items were their property and that they might consider selling them if the Israelite Hospital of Rome wishes to buy them.

Despite its protected status, the café is at risk of closure, with a deadline set for September 1st. The future preservation of the spirit of the Caffè Greco in a possible change of operator or location remains uncertain. Giorgio de Chirico, a regular guest of the Caffè Greco, once called it "the place where one can sit and wait for the end of the world". Today, it seems as if the café itself is waiting for its end.