Matcha fever raises alarms among traditional Japanese tea artisans
In the heart of Japan, a cultural shift is underway, transforming one of the country's most iconic teas from a meditative ritual into a mainstream flavour. This transformation, both fascinating and unsettling for some, has been driven by the growing popularity of matcha, a finely ground green tea powder, and the entry of other countries into the matcha market.
Historically, guests would enter a traditional tea house through a small doorway, symbolizing equality. This humble tradition continues today, but the tea itself is now finding its way into various commercial products beyond traditional tea ceremonies, such as lattes, cakes, and chocolate bars.
The sudden commercialization of matcha has sparked concerns among practitioners like Keiko Kaneko, a tea ceremony instructor, who views the craze with quiet scepticism. However, others, like Minoru Handa, who runs a tea business established in 1815, believe the matcha craze is here to stay due to its versatility and popularity.
The Japanese agricultural ministry is offering farmers specialized machinery, soil assistance, financial aid, and guidance to support the shift to matcha production. This support has led to a significant increase in the production of tencha (the base leaf for matcha), with production nearly tripling between 2008 and 2023.
Tea exports have more than doubled in a decade, with the United States accounting for about one-third of overseas sales. However, the journey of matcha from meditative ritual to mainstream flavour has not been without challenges. Labour shortages and an ageing farming population pose threats to the stability of matcha supply.
To prevent hoarding during shortages, Handa limits sales to one can per customer. Meanwhile, Tomoyuki Kawai from the ministry's tea division states that their goal is to make matcha a standard flavor and a strong Japanese global brand.
The production of matcha is a meticulous process, requiring time and skill. The tea leaves are cultivated in shade, steamed, dried, and ground into an ultra-fine powder. Premium matcha is a delicate, complex tea meant to be savoured with water.
Anna Poian of the Global Japanese Tea Association warns against wasting premium matcha in lattes and desserts, suggesting lower-grade powders for culinary use. Despite these concerns, the commercial use of matcha continues to expand, with countries such as China and Taiwan emerging as potential competitors.
However, the quality of Japanese matcha remains the gold standard due to its traditional cultivation and processing methods. The tea ceremony, rooted in Zen philosophy and centuries-old tradition, invites participants to slow down, appreciate the present moment, and treat every encounter as unique. As matcha continues to capture the world's imagination, it remains a testament to Japan's rich cultural heritage.
