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In the world of dining, a fascinating shift has emerged, often referred to as the "souvenir economy." Instead of items being accidents of theft, they have become tokens of participation. This transformation is particularly evident in high-end restaurants like Sexy Fish in London, where over half a million brass chopstick rests (miniature fish) have mysteriously vanished since their introduction.

To encourage the return of these missing items, Sexy Fish launched a "Missing Fish Amnesty" in August, offering a cocktail in exchange. The campaign, which became a sensation, reinforced the restaurant's myth, demonstrating the value of embracing the joke.

Similarly, in 2025, 477 ceramic figurines, known as maneki-neko, valued at £2,146.50 disappeared from Gordon Ramsay's Lucky Cat restaurant within a week. These figures, symbolizing prosperity in Japanese culture, are often used as chopstick rests and decorative elements in Japanese-themed restaurants.

The behaviour of diners taking souvenir items from restaurants is being reframed as a marketing opportunity by some. For instance, Sexy Fish has turned the issue into a campaign, while hotels have turned the issue of guests taking towels and robes into a product line, selling the items and embracing the concept of resortcore.

However, the stakes are sharper for smaller independents, as the financial risk of lost items could be more significant. Operators must strike a balance between playful myth-making and unsustainable loss. Restaurants like Ramsay's Lucky Cat, which experienced significant financial losses due to the disappearance of maneki-neko figurines, show the potential risks of letting the souvenir economy run unchecked.

Dining has become a form of identity work, with restaurants presenting themselves as full stage sets and diners wanting to own a piece of the experience. Consumers collect these objects as a way of holding onto memories, with this instinct intensifying in the experience economy where dining is pitched as theatre.

Objects such as the brass fish and porcelain cat are considered the ultimate mementos in the experience economy, as they are tangible, enduring, and photogenic. In the social media age, these objects serve as proof of access, elevating them from utensils to trophies.

In recent years, there are no specific reports of restaurants in London losing special items like maneki-neko figurines or miniature fish used as service utensils, apart from the well-known Japanese restaurant "Lucky Cat" in Mayfair, London, which features maneki-neko figures as part of its Japanese-themed decor and dining experience.

As the souvenir economy continues to evolve, smarter operators will design with this trend in mind, offering souvenirs for sale or creating controlled opportunities for diners to take something home. Whether operators choose to treat the taking of souvenir items as theft to be policed or PR theatre to be staged, one thing is clear: the souvenir economy is here to stay.